So I finished the last blog with me heading to the border. As I mentioned, he had been warned that it could be lengthy due to the fact that a gun had been found on a vehicle trying cross the same border point in previous days. Unfortunately the warning came true! For previous other crossings we had just carried our day packs through, this time we had to unload our big rucksacks too and carry them through. We all queued up and created our now customary 'Odyssey Wall' so that no-one could skip the queue in front of us. Our bags were all x-rayed and we were stamped out of the country - all very straight forward and only took just over an hour. We walked out of the building where we had to wait on Calypso getting though. Unlike previous borders where we walked across no man's land and met Simon and Calypso in the next country, this wasn't an option here as the Uzbek border was 2km away, it was about 35 degrees and we had all of our baggage. Every inch of Calypso was searched - the tents, the food containers, fridge, safe, every nook and cranny and it took hours whilst we sat in the blazing sun. Finally, we got the go ahead to continue and we all jumped on relieved to be out of the sun. We got to a final passport check to leave Turkmenistan when the guard there decided that the exit stamp on Julie's passport was smudged and it needed to be redone. Talk about ridiculous! By this point we were not amused! We turned back and were told that the border office was now closed for lunch and would reopen at 2pm - it was about 1.15. Majorly fed up we decided to try and set up the kitchen to make out own lunch whilst we waited but were told we weren't allowed. I think in order to get rid of us they got someone to come out from their lunch to restamp the passport. We were on our way again and we got back to the guy who had sent us back. This time he was happy with the passport stamp but he couldn't let us through to the Uzbek side as they were still closed for lunch. Honestly, you couldn't make this stuff up!! We used the tables on the truck as a makeshift kitchen and made the customary cheese sandwiches whilst we waited. At 2 pm we were allowed to leave - just 3.5 hours after we had got to the border at 10.30. When we got to the Uzbek side we all cleared immigration and customs within an hour but once again we had to wait on the truck getting through - at least this time we were able to sit in an air conditioned office, albeit on the hard tiled floor. We finally got through about 4.30 - 6 hours after we first approached the border at the Turkmenistan side. We are going to start taking wagers on how difficult and lengthy the crossings are going forward!
Once we were through our guide met up with us and we were headed to Khiva, which thankfully was only around an hour away. We were all really happy when we arrived, the hotel was nice and the town looked beautiful with lovely blue tiled buildings and minarets - it was the first time that I felt we were really on the old silk route. Everyone's priority after the long day was a shower and food. We group meal had been arranged so after quick showers he headed off to the restaurant which was lovely!
Restaurant
Restaurant again
The food was lovely, with me trying the plov again...
We were given vodka shots at the end of the meal, I didn't drink mine but Julie and Teresa had a taste of theirs - check out the look of fear on T's face!
, at
Then something awesome happened, a guy appeared with a carrier bag full of money for us! Lol, that's actually the truth. We had been informed by the guide that the best way to change money in Uzbekistan was on the black market - we would get 2500 Soms to 1 USD, at a bank it was only around 2000. So we all set about changing our money - I changed $50 and got 125000 Som in 1000 notes - I felt like I was rolling in it!
Alex with his stash
Julie and Andy with theirs
Chilling out after a big meal...
Next morning we were off on a walking tour of the city - I am not going to say too much, I'm going to let the pictures speak for themselves but it was beautiful....
Minaret
Dave trying on one of the local hats
We like this one better!
Mosque
Becs trying out the water pump
Silk shawl anyone?
All the ladies in the harem
Lunch
Suit's you T!
There was a festival on in the town that afternoon evening so there were a lot of people about singing and dancing....
The climax to the festivities was to begin at 6pm in the square outside the hotel. The hotel owner had reserved us front row seats for the spectacular....
Ladies waiting on the final festivities....
Local kids trying to claim our seats - time for an Odyssey wall! Lol
So what was the final attraction. Wait for it.......
Sheep fighting!
And cock fighting!
Not exactly my idea of a good night's entertainment but we sat through it as we were honoured guests. After that we headed for some well earned beers and dinner...
Chilling for dinner
The next day we started of on our long drive to Bukhara. Unfortunately Jo, my roommate, had been ill through the night and was not looking forward to the journey. To be fair the journey was horrendous for everyone - driving almost 100 degree heat in a metal truck for 9 hours on awful roads is not something I would recommend for anyone but even more so when you are ill. Thankfully she survived the journey but went straight to bed when we arrived. The rest of had a quick look around and then headed off for dinner.
Lovely courtyard in our new hotel
Sunset view from the restaurant
The bromance between Al and Andy continues....
Next morning Jo was feeling a bit better and we all headed off on the walking tour. Again, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves......
By this point unfortunately myself and at least half of the group had dodgy tummies so no-one strayed too far from the hotel! To be honest I think it was a combination of the heat and different foods that were not agreeing with us.
At night Jo and I headed out for dinner where we also met Warren...
We also bought ourselves a silk scarf each - well we couldn't travel the silk route and not buy one!
Jo with her scarf
Next morning we were on the road again, this time heading to Samarkand. We would be staying there for 3 nights - something we had not done since Goreme in Turkey 5 weeks ago. Thankfully the journey was much shorter - only 5 hours and we made it there by lunchtime. Unfortunately Jo had taken ill again, this time much worse, and had to be almost carried up to the room by myself and Teresa. A thank you to Hayden and Kelly who brought our bags up! I stayed in most of the afternoon to make sure Jo was OK then headed out in the evening for a group meal and a drink.
Soup with dinner
Dessert
Next morning we once again did a walking tour - lots more beautiful blue tiled mausoleums and madrassahs, oh and a market
From Samarkand we headed to Tashkent where I am now. To be perfectly honest, I haven't done too much here. My highlight has been finding this in a local mini market......
We are leaving here early tomorrow morning and heading to Kazakhstan. Hopefully this border crossing will be nice and smooth!
We are also about to start a major stint of camping, in the next 17 nights we will have only 2 nights in a hotel and 1 night in a homestay - we are going to be smelly! The next 4 nights are in Kazakhstan (and by the way, Pernille finally got her visa - yay!), then on to Kyrgyzstan for 2 weeks before we hit China. If you don't hear from me in that time it's just because I've no internet access!
Hope you are all enjoying the blog so far - leave me some comments so I know who is reading it!
Take care xx
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