Wednesday, 2 October 2013

For the Love of Laos

And so on to Laos.  This is a country I have been wanting to visit for a long time and I was so excited.  The border crossing started off easily enough, we got stamped out of Thailand and then got on a boat across the river to start the proceedings to get into Laos.  This was another first, I’ve done land, air and sea border crossings on this trip so a river crossing was a new one.
Once in the country we got into a motorised long boat for our two day sail down the mighty Mekong river.  It was great – a brilliant way to relax and travel, much better than 15 hour journeys on Calypso!  On the first day we stopped near a local village to go for a quick visit, although I was advised to stay on the boat due to my sore ankle.  I waved everyone off and enjoyed the peace and quiet on the boat before a group of young local boys came to the river for a swim.  As soon as they saw me they started showing off doing handstands and somersaults, it was great to watch.
 


Louise on the boat






Kids showing off!



 
As evening started to descend we moored at a town called Pak Beng for the night.  It was lovely and peaceful looking out over the river.  Next day, just before we got to our destination of Luang Prabang, we stopped off at some caves.  Nicknamed the 1000 Buddha caves we went along for a look.  To be honest we were a bit disappointed as they were nothing spectacular, but that could have been down to the temple fatigue we were all feeling.  We have seen so many temples and Buddhas on this journey that they all start to blend in to one another!
Once we got to Luang Prabang we were all very happy.  It was lovely and we had 4 nights there.  It was such a lovely laid back place and during our time there we visited waterfalls, I rode elephants, ate some lovely food and shopped in the amazing night market.
It is so lovely here and I think it’s my favourite place on the trip so far.  The Beer Lao is pretty awesome too!

Home for the night



Buddha caves









Chilling by the river with Jo
 











 
Of to go elephant riding.......




















A day out at the waterfalls....
Kid with a big scary knife!
 



















 
Next stop in Laos was Vientiane the capital.  It was a long day’s drive and when we arrived it was just really time for dinner, a trip round the market then bed.  The next day though Jo and I headed out with 2 main things in mind – to see Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe and to visit a place called the COPE Centre (more about that in a minute).  Here’s the Arc…..




 
Next off was the COPE Centre. I had heard some snippets of information about the dangers of the Laos countryside due to unexploded bombs left from the American-Vietnam war but did not realise the full extent until I visited this centre.  This place helps the victims of these bombs to rehabilitate after losing limbs etc.  It was heartbreaking – these bombs are still going off, only the week before in Luang Prabang 3 children had been killed when an unexploded bomb had gone off.  Laos holds the dubious honour of being the most bombed country in the world per capita.  It is reckoned that that there are over 80 million unexploded bombs still in Laos that were dropped from American aircraft during the war that did not detonate for whatever reason.  Whilst some of these are in the open and being dealt with, many are in rice paddies and in fields or under houses. It makes it very difficult for people who are barely scraping an existence – do they farm the land and risk being killed or injured by a device or potential starve as there is no other work or opportunities available.  One of the awful things is that children are finding these bombs and trying to dig them up because they can be sold for scrap metal, with enough money being raised to feed their family for a month.  The consequences can, and have been fatal.  In my opinion there is not enough awareness of this issues and not enough is being done to clear up these unexploded devices – especially by the Americans who dropped them in the first place!
Next stop was a National Park by the river where we were going to see some caves.  Unfortunately we had heard that the accommodation we had planned to stay in had been flooded and was not able to fit us all in now, so we headed to a place nearby.  They also did not have enough space for us all so 8 people were moved to a small guesthouse nearby.  I was one of the 8 I’m sad to say.  Let’s be polite and say the rooms were not up to scratch.  The ones the couple had been given were tiny, had mouldy sheets and no running water.  The room Jo and I had was definitely better than their ones –it was basic but clean, however the electric wiring was seriously dodgy.  To switch the light on you had to wiggle the fuse box and to turn the fan on you had to hang the plug from the socket where blue flashes and orange sparks frequently flew out of.  Someone pointed out that the voltage was low so wouldn’t hurt me too much if I got a shock.  I pointed out in retort that I was more worried about dying from the resulting the electircal fire in the wooden hut that was our room!  Simon and Teresa were called to investigate and to try and come up with a solution.  It was agreed that we would spend one night there and the next day, after our visit to the caves, we would be moved to the original accommodation which could take the smaller group of 8.  With the compromise agreed, we headed to bed ready for the cave visit.

The caves the next day were good, very big and very dark we headed through them in boats armed with our head torches – they are not overly touristy and whilst that can often be a good thing, here I feel they could do with a bit more investment to have them better lit and have the guides point some stuff out.  Nevertheless a lovely morning’s trip!  Once back we switched accommodation and it was light night and day compared to the previous one – it was lovely, with a great balcony overlooking the river.  At dinner that night we were able to sit and watch the boats go by catching fish and frogs, it was so quiet and eerie but very magical.
 
Caves....











 
 That was our last stop in Laos and I loved it, probably my favourite overall country.  The scenery is spectacular, the food was great and the people were lovely.  It’s a very relaxed and laid back place and somewhere I’d definitely come back to and would absolutely recommend to others to visit here.
Onwards to Vietnam!

No comments:

Post a Comment